Bonnets were definitely giving way to hats at this point, and the hats were often extra tall and extra trimmed. This decade was known for the use of dead animals, particularly birds. . .
Quick Overview
- Bonnets were sometimes wide-brimmed and sometimes less so, but usually had wide strings.
- Hats were usually larger than bonnets, and some had wide brims and some small. They were often tall and placed directly on top of the head. Toques were also popular.
- They might be made of straw, silk, felt, or velvet, but straw was certainly the most popular.
- Trimmings included feathers, ribbons, flowers, lace, and stuffed birds.
- Evening styles included silk flowers, feathers, headdresses, caps, beads, and wreaths
Examples
- Visiting Dress (1880): “Bonnet covered with old gold satin, under a design of fancy straw braid, sewn in loops and one rosette in center of crown; brim slightly raised in front, lined with close pleats of pale blue surah. Round crown, écharpes of blue surah are crossed, below three pale blue ostrich feathers and a heron’s aigrette, pleated on each side of the brim and continued to form the strings.” (Cunnington, English Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century, 353.)
- Theatre Headdress (1881): “Toque cap of shot plush; three shaded feathers at the back and an agraffe of diamonds in front.” (Cunnington, 353.)
- Carriage Dress (1882): “A trellis work of pearls mounted on a satin foundation; white poof of feathers and an aigrette, loose embroidered strings.” (Cunnington, 354.)
- Ball Headdress (1885): “Hair slightly waved and combed back from the forehead; fringe all around the head, curled with irons. Ornaments, a band of pale blue pearls, pouf of feathers, velvet bow and diamond agraffe.” (Cunnington, 355.)
- Walking Dress (1886): “Pale yellow straw hat, trimmed with brown velvet and brown and yellow ribbon. Spray of buttercups and fancy grasses at the side.” (Cunnington, 356.)
- Costume Hat (1888): ” (Toque) Soft folded crown of material, encircled with band of feather trimming; cluster of ombré ribbon loops and bird.” (Cunnington, 357.)
Vocabulary
- Agraffe: A hook or clasp of some type (Fine Dictionary)
- écharpe: A scarf, sash, or (as probably meant here) long strips of material
- surah: A silk fabric with twill weave (Fabric Lore)
- ombré: A fabric with shading that gradually moves from light to dark (Oxford English Dictionary)
- Aigrette: A spray of feathers or jewels on a hat (Merriam-Webster)
Men’s Hats
And we are still with the top hat and the bowler hat, though, as with the ladies’ fashions, both could be considerably taller than previously. They may also occasionally wear straw boater hats (as did the women sometimes as well).
Resources
- Cunnington, C. Willett. English Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century. Courier Corporation, 2013.
- Franklin, Harper. “1880-1889 | Fashion History Timeline.” Fashion History Timeline. Accessed October 22, 2025. https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1880-1889/.
- Peacock, John. Costume 1066 To the Present 3e. National Geographic Books, 2006.
- The Metropolitan Museum of Art. “Costume Institute Fashion Plates,” May 19, 2021. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/libraries-and-research-centers/watson-digital-collections/costume-institute-collections/costume-institute-fashion-plates.
- Tierney, Tom. Late Victorian and Edwardian Fashions. Courier Corporation, 2005.
Forest Idylls 